Archive for the Robocatus Maximus Category

Finally!

Posted in Robocatus Maximus on October 16, 2016 by asteriondaedalus

Yesterday the wife decided to do some serious gardening.  So some hard yacka ripping out Yucca, rearranging them somewhat, to then put citrus, mango, fig and a couple of other fruit trees in.  Weather didn’t help.  It was sunny, so no excuses.

Today, poured raining again.

So, finally.

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Motors all turning the right way.  All lock nuts tightening so motors in correct positions.

Gunned motors.  It didn’t rattle.

Some quirks.  With throttle in fixed position the motors did seem to run on a little.

None of it means much until the props go on and we’ll find the next niggly problems.

Note it is a tight fitting setup.  I almost guillotined cables with the folding section of frame.  It took some jiggling to get things to close up.

Of note, the CC3D need to be offset from centre line otherwise the top cage closes down on motor outputs.  You cannot, of course, rotate the controller – it has an arrow on the top that must face forward.  If being offset from centre causes a problem some work will be required.  The likely option is to take the controller out of its neat plastic case so it can sit lower on the chassis, which will then require it be protected from shorting with the carbon fibre chassis.

I will likely have to do something with the UBEC lead as it was the wire that got guillotined!  It wasn’t long enough to optimally route and I half expect a failure mode due to the frame rubbing the wire in the current location (note the ferrite core).  As the carbon fibre is conductive it likely needs a safer path – I did add heat shrink to protect it somewhat, and to overcome the slit now in the +ve lead.

Revisiting those pesky motors

Posted in Robocatus Maximus on October 11, 2016 by asteriondaedalus

So, wife has gone to bed, so I have a vodka and soda in hand, while swapping the wiring and then the motors on the front of the Robocat – so that they turn the right way.

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With trusty marker I have added a little reminder.  Note this is a motor rewired and re-heat shrunk and before the physical motor swap so eagle eyed readers need not concern themselves.

By the by, aliexpress has the CC3D Revolution flight controller (with the more spacious ARM chip) that can be used as a drone autopilot.  The CC3D with the kit is the older version and is an RC quad (without autopilot, return home, et cetera).  Good enough to get a handle on building and flying in any event.

The real story.

Posted in Robocatus Maximus on October 6, 2016 by asteriondaedalus

Wiring up your EMAX Simonk 12A ESC with your outrunner.  The motors that come with the kit are the EMAX MT2204-2300KV (not the one in the photo below).  Leads 1, 2 and 3 from left (Figure 1).

wires

Figure 1

Wiring up, if you are soldering directly to the Simonk 12A ESC, below in Figure 2.

This picture will hopefully overcome the confusion generated by some of the verbal descriptions on people’s “help” videos and their often fat fingers in the way when they are holding pieces for the camera (look to Figure 1 for the wire numbers that match the numbers in Figure 2).

wires2

Figure 2

Wire 2 always goes to the solder pad closest to the capacitor.  The wiring of the other wires (1 and 3) will depend on whether you want the motor to rotate CCW (silver cap) or CW (black cap).  Use the top row numbering for CCW spinning motors, and use the bottom row numbering for CW spinning motors.

Arrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrgh!

Posted in Robocatus Maximus on October 6, 2016 by asteriondaedalus

The good news.  The switch surgery fixed the calibration block.  It made sense since it was the rudder switch and the rudder sweep on the pot that was blocking the calibration. The switch was likely in the wrong position.

Bad news.  We studiously followed the guidance on a website.  Conferred amongst ourselves, quadruple checked and got it wrong.  Will need to tear the quad down, cut off heat shrink, re-wire etc. as the motors turned the wrong way – you can work this out because when you throttle up after calibration (with props of course) your lock nuts fly off, straight up, bounce of ceiling, land in you beer.  If they don’t land in you beer, keep trying until they do land in your beer.

Although the beer might, I say might, actually be the root cause … just saying.

Still.

All part of the learning process.

*sniff*

Sigh!!

Posted in Robocatus Maximus on October 5, 2016 by asteriondaedalus

20161005_235231

So close!

Posted in Robocatus Maximus on October 5, 2016 by asteriondaedalus

Mate! A few days of work, mostly filling in the missing information, with long hauls on the net (so much priori knowledge), or runs up to Jaycar or hobby store for bits.

Whoops!

Posted in Robocatus Maximus on October 5, 2016 by asteriondaedalus

Dropped me TGY9 and broke a switch.

Long drive across town to Jaycar and 10 minutes of surgery so all good again. Seems a common ailment.

Finally!

Posted in Robocatus Maximus on October 4, 2016 by asteriondaedalus

No info on the Turnigy 9x8C V2 receiver *groan*.

Turns out SIGNAL on the top row.

PWR is middle row.

GND is bottom row.

Figures … it’s same arrangement as servos.

Gotcha though is the wiring on the cabling to the receiver, from the CC3D, does not match the colours that the LibrePilot site declares.

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My “hand” model Jon deftly holding for the money shot, the white wire is actually signal three it seems as it is the fifth not third (after GND and PWR).  No matter word was you can 1) have the power input to Rx on any channel and 2) you can adjust the configuration using the GCS software.

So many fingers in the way on internet “help” sites so the following for your reading convenience.

bind2

The other gotcha is Rx cannot be connected to the LiPo.  The CC3D can be connected directly to the LiPo, it has a regulator on it so it is happy with volts between 4.8 and 15.  The twist is whatever you apply to the CC3D PWR pins all PWR output will be that input voltage.  Therefore, one needs a regulator added to apply 5V to the CC3D so the Rx only gets 5V.  I happened to have a couple of UBEC in my part’s drawer.  This is attaced to the Tx pads on the power distribution panel (so what!) and would normally be used for the telemetry Tx.  Works just as well as the pick off for the CC3D and thence Rx.

20161004_153546  I had a half dozen UBEC for AIO in my drawer. Lucky.

 

Ah ha moments during Quadcopter build

Posted in Robocatus Maximus on October 2, 2016 by asteriondaedalus

ahha

So, in the absence of any hints in the build instructions (there is really nothing post assembly diagram for frame), it occurred to me that the aluminium (aloo-min-num in American) “thingy” seemed to fit tightly over one of the two power connectors.

hmmm

Note that, and it might just be me, but if you want to remove the side panels to get to components in the top frame, you need to bore out the hole that takes the screw that holds the top frame to the bottom frame.  Just use a drill bit rolled between your fingers.  The screw head now fits through the shell, butts nicely against the carbon fibre.  So, now two options: 1) undo the screws holding down the top frame and hinge it open, or 2) just take off the side panel.

 

 

Quadcopter building frenzy, still!

Posted in Robocatus Maximus on October 2, 2016 by asteriondaedalus

bssp

Go figure, no real instructions on wiring the thing up.  Yes you have to swap wires on your ESC for CW/CCW motors.  Silver (CCW) straight, black (CW) swapped.  Here is the one and only pic I could find on the net to help out.

Note, there are NO mounting bits for this.  It goes in middle of bottom frame plate.  Because the carbon-fibre is conductive it really needs nylon washers or posts and nylon screws and nuts.  It needs to be raised off bottom plate high enough that switches on the underside are accessible through the small side plates.  I am putting the ESC on the arms of the copter, by the way, it means there’ll be a constant downdraft of air over the ESC – hidden in the frame they won’t get the same cooling.

For that you need heat shrink to go back on the ESC as you will remove the wires off the ESC to attach the motor wires directly to the pads on the ESC.