Bearly assembled

So far so good

Still waiting on my power supply. But I’ve burnt Klipper firmware for the BTT SKR MINI E3 2.0, and OctoPrint running on the Raspingdoodleberry Pi 2W.

But wouldn’t you know it. At least one report of fragging of BTT SKR MINI E3 V2.0 with this setup.

So poking around I find you can draw up to 600mA with the RPi Zero 2W.

So what current can the “serial” port of the BTT SKR MINI E3 V2.0 deliver?

Who knows.

But, the solution might be an additonal power adapter for LED strips (apparently). Looks like you add that and switch a jumper “Neo-PWR1”, so as to drive the “PWR” line with the “NPWR” output of the additional power module, rather than the on board “+5V” line. That’s the loan red jumper in the photo by the way. Pins are conveniently labelled on the underside of the board.

Maybe. Can’t confirm the current this might draw, but it would otherwise not frag the internal +5V circuit of the BTT SKR MINI E3 V2.0, since it runs entirely via the daughter board.

The daughterboard seems to replicate the on board power supply, same chip – being MK1584EN.

Disposable daughterboards, bought 2 – just in case.

UPDATE

LOL, turns out the person who reported the fragged BTT SKR MINI E3 V2.0 may have shorted it out, rather than it being a overloading due to the RPi Zero 2 W piggyback on the “PWR” line.

AW COME ON!!

Yes, I know. Measure twice, cut once.

Got me X-carriage built. Sweet. Very tight fit. Needed light tapping on rods to get them to fit into the idler end. Couldn’t budge the x-motor end until I remembered the hair drier! A few minutes gently warming the plastic and it slipped in (Oh No! Double Entedre!).

Then … then I checked it for length. DOH!

Reprinting x-carriage bits again now.

<insert deep gutteral groan emoji here>

🙈

mwahahahah!

So, I thought I would try Raspingdoodleberry Pi disk utility, if it was happy to set me WIFI and other things.

It had the option for renaming the host.

But of course!

I named my Prusa Bear clone … wait for it … raspbearypi.local.

Nah

Decided this was the case for my Bear’s mobo.

However, I have modified, see below.

More solid foundation for back of 4040 of Bear’s frame.

Holes plenty deep to keep bolt heads out of the way.

The print is running now. Pretty hairy, its probably the biggest base I can squeeze onto the Finder. No room for walls or brims.

So SQUEEZY!

While I wait on parts

So, I thought I would set up a Pi with my BIGTREETECH SKR Mini e3 v2.0 with Klipper and started poking around, looking for guides etc.

Thankyou Klipper team for a config file!

I noted you apparently had to install Octaprint on your Pi to set up some aspects, but didn’t need use Octaprint per se. But not sure why you wouldn’t? If you had Gggrunt!

I have a 3B+ that I thought I would use, but then I remembered I had lucked into a Raspberry Pi 2 W and wondered …

Gggrunt!

… and apparently Rasperry Pi 2 W with the quad core is exactly what you need for the job, but hints on installation are here.

So I started with the destructions here.

BUT …

Stopped half way through the download of Octaprint BECAUSE I drifted to the Octaprint website, …

… while waiting for the dowload of Octaprint, per the destructions, I found a prepackaged Octaprint/Klipper bundle.

STOP!

RESTART!

A little more poking around lead me onto a wide angle pi camera idea, and so I ordered one of those from Littlebird Electronics.

Just need me a pesky 32G SD card, now where are they hiding … nope, off to Jaycar then.

In the meantime, I am 3D printing a mount for the RPi Zero 2, and also another for the BIGTREETECH SKR Mini e3 v2.0.

Hot plates for Finders part 1

Ta da!

So, the hot plate has turned up, being 156mm on a side, and it appears will fit snuggly onto my Finder bed.

Smooth!

Just needs a little thinking about to mount it. But then there is the thermostat, which looks like I can scavange from my small heating experiment for the 11U cabinet I had the Finder in.

Just waiting on some magnetic bedding.

And a wad of insulation wool to go between the heated bed and the base.

Ordered a spare Finder base from Jaycar.

I ordered the second base since I’ll lift out the glass and bolt the heated bed to the base, with the insulation pad in between.

GODAMMIT!

So, stalled again … FRACK!

Heaps of M5x8mm, M5x12mm, but I did that on the cheap – by buying n packets of mixed bolts from Aliexpress. Now I understand that’ll offend some, but I’ll not lose any sleep over your angst (this is the emoji for “your angst >🤯<).

Not to mention, I got a packet of what was supposed to be M5 “t nuts” but they did not match with the M5 bolts I had, or at least 2 did and a random check of …

…. WHAT THE FRACK IS THE PROBLEM WITH THESE NUTS! …🤬

… and did not find any more than the two 2 that fitted, oh I didn’t find more than the 2, I didn’t find more than the two that I fitted, and it really did made me feel really blue!

These nasty suckers! Not for my Bear Build no more AND, yes I hear you … WHY WOULD YOU?!?!?

Ordered some of these locally, to get them quick, and another batch from Aliexpress, to keep the stock up.

So, yes. Stuck at exactly at Figure 1! below. The “missing” M5x10mm are for the Z-axis motor mounts.

So, really the first step of the Z-axis build …

… GOD FRACKIT!!

The “feet” I have added take squash balls to provide a cushion. Just do a search of Thingiverse for feet options.

Figure 1

Finally, an x-carriage for my corexy PnP

So, it took 4 failed prints to get a clean and straight right-side for my x-carriage for my corexy PnP. Finally got one. Still not happy with adhesion with the bed but it was straight and true.

Fig 1

Fig 1 is me finally trying out my adaption for my drill press to allow for precision heat setting.

Fig 2

Here’s a trick with your heat sets, don’t pump your iron temp up too high. I have mine set higher for soldering, and one of the heat sets came back out with the iron as I withdrew it. DOH! Sorted it. None of those in Figure 3, just one of the heat sets for the z-axis.

Fig 3

Here’s another trick. I made the holes too loose on x-carriage sides so may not have bitten well enough – so had to be gentle when tightening. Made holes too tight on z-axis holding sites, so did loose some skin when fiddling with holding the thing and accidently touched the hot iron … OUCH!

I will have to update the model.

Fig 4

Last tip from Fig 4, hold off final tightening until the linear bearings are in.

Fig 5

Fig 5 FRACKING AWSOME!! So, I have essentially started building my corexy PnP, x-carraige first. Next will be the frame, since everything then hangs off that.

So Fig 6 generally, though that leaves Fig 7 an option.

Fig 6

Fig 7

Getting ahead of the game

Yeah sure the Bear Build is a slow build, but a good build.

The BTT SKR MINI E3 V2 is the board that will run on the Bear (Fig 1).

Fig 1

So Klipper seems the way to go, for no other reason than why not? Now, trying to lean on work already done will be interesting, since we’ve got a Prusa setup already, but probably not for the BTT SKR MINI E3 V2. Here is a hack in work that may illuminate.

Marlin setup here in any event.

Of course, if I opted to use the BTT SKR MINI E3 V2 on my Voron-esque PnP then there is a starting position. Never fear, you appear to be able to still buy these boards. But, I am very likely to build a mobo from Stephen Hawes’ project, since he inspired my PnP adventure, and then that be the homage I can offer, since I went entirely the opposite direction he did with the physical design.

Oh dear, now they tell me.

How crabby can one be?